Erath Winery, Oregon (United States) Pinot Noir 2008

 Everybody knows that Pinot is perilous at price points below $20, but everybody who tastes this wine will know that there are some wonderful exceptions to the rule.  Fresh, pure and delicate in style, this is an object lesson in restraint, showing none of the confected, over-ripe obviousness that afflicts so many American Pinots these days.  (And it is worth noting that this affliction has spread north from California into Oregon, which once sought to distinguish its Pinots by dint of delicacy but now often seems to want to duke it out on power with California.)  The oak is likewise very subtle, permitting the soft, subtle black and red cherry fruit to shine in the forefront.