El Primario, Tierra de Castilla (Castilla y León, Spain) 2008

 This is a modest-looking wine with a modest designation (rather than appellation–it is actually the Spanish equivalent of what would be a Vin de Pays in France).  However, it is a big, assertive performer, with lots of muscle and intensity that actually calls for food like grilled lamb rather than the roast chicken that you’d be advised to order with a mass-market wine from this area (like Tapeña, which is quite good but no threat to this bottle).  Impressive stuff!