Benotto, Monferrato (Piedmont, Italy) Nebbiolo 2009

Most Americans are convinced that they can’t get genuinely fine wines made from the Nebbiolo grape for less than $30, since that is the bare minimum that one must usually pay for the famed wines from Barbaresco and Barolo. In an important sense, they are correct, since few importers are willing to do the hand-selling necessary to work with less well-known appellations like Monferrato. This wine is a delightful exception to the rule, showing bright blackberry fruit accented with dried herb and spice notes, which just the faintest whiff of oak. Beautifully balanced, with just the right amount of tannic grip to enable this to excel at the table without turning astringent, this is the ticket for pork or veal.