Clos Basté, Madiran (Sud Ouest, France) 2009

Previously the oenologist for the well-known Madiran winery Château d’Aydie, Philippe Sur bought a run-down estate in 1998 and has been slowly updating it.  He is working on organic certification and has it for a couple of parcels.  This wine, 70% Tannat and 30% Cabernet Franc, initially seems like it’s going to be enormous — it’s dark, the "legs" in the glass are huge, and the flavors are of ripe Concord grape.  But it turns out to be lighter on its feet than you expect, with a subtle finish.  13.5% alcohol.