In the Bonny Doon Contra, winemaker Randall Grahm has crafted a rustic "old vine" field blend that reflects to a large extent the history of California wine. At the very least it recalls an era when vineyards weren’t so precise, a time when multiple grape varieties were planted on the same plot. Contra is mostly old vine Carignan from two different vineyards in California’s Contra Costa County. But there’s also a fair amount of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsault. The tannins are still a bit coarse in this young pup of a red wine, so decanting is recommended. Also a savory cut of grilled meat hot off the grill.