Côte de Beaune is an unusual appellation, not to be confused (though it often is) with Côte de Beaune-Villages or simply Beaune. It is comprised of a few vineyards located above Beaune — but not in the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune — on the Montagne de Beaune. Despite its obscurity, it’s an important appellation for Drouhin, which means it’s worth remembering. Their Côte de Beaune is consistently excellent because it contains a substantial amount of declassified wine from their famed 1er cru Clos des Mouches vineyard and their other vineyards in Beaune. The 2011 is more concentrated and has slightly darker — more black than red fruit — than the Chorey-lès-Beaune. The structure is a bit more apparent at this stage, but there’s no hiding the Drouhin charm and elegance. It’s an excellent buy.
Maison Joseph Drouhin, Côte de Beaune (Burgundy, France) 2011
By Michael Apstein