There is no one better than Jeannie Rogers, owner of Adonna Imports, at finding and importing Italian wines. She is one of a diminishing breed of importers who specializes in one country. She knows Italian wines like few others. The Adonna Imports name on a label is as good a guarantee of quality and distinctiveness as you’ll find. She scourers Italy, finding wines from obscure areas, such as Boca, a tiny DOC in northern Piedmont that had widespread popularity prior to World War II. Le Piane’s Boca, a blend of Nebbiolo, Vespolina and Bonarda, has plenty of spice and mineral notes to balance its dark fruit profile. Indeed, its character comes from these non-fruit flavors that provide a Barolo-like sensibility. It has surprising elegance for a wine of its size. Firm, but not aggressive, tannins provide structure. Le Piane’s Boca is a fine choice for hearty winter fare now, but has the requisite structure and balance to evolve beautifully, much like a fine Barolo.
Le Piane, Boca (Piedmont, Italy) 2008
By Michael Apstein