Frei Brothers, Dry Creek Valley (California) Merlot 2015

 Merlot is staging a significant comeback after years of derision in the wake of Sideways (much of it deserved on account of the diluted nature of many Merlots on the market at that time, but none of it appropriately directed at the variety per se, which can be outstanding when grown and vinified seriously).  This bottling, which is reasonably priced and shows clear varietal character, is the sort of rendition capable of drawing consumers back to the grape.  Medium-bodied, with fresh (but not obvious) fruit recalling black plums and red berries, is accented with just enough wood to layer the aromas and flavors.  There’s moderate intensity of flavor and enough tannic grip to show seriousness as well as suitability for pairing with white meats such as pork or veal, or lighter preparations of red meat dishes.  A Double Gold award winner at the 2018 Toast of the Coast Wine Competition.