Volcan Mountain Winery, San Diego County (California) Pinot Gris 2017

 This is excellent Pinot Gris in the style currently associated with Oregon and New Zealand (meaning medium-bodied and dry, unlike leaner Italian Grigios or big, sweet Alsace renderings).  In that context, this runs neck-and-neck with reference quality Kiwi or Oregon bottlings, based on expressive melon aromatics, flavors recalling stone fruits as well as those same melons, and a soft finish with enough acidity to achieve definition.  Fine fruit, well wrought.  A Double Gold award winner at the 2018 Toast of the Coast Wine Competition.