Once upon a time Lagrein was a bit of a mean wine, often showing biting acidity and hard, green tannins. The cool climate in the foothills of the Alps certainly was a factor, but lazy farming contributed to the frequent flaw of under ripe grapes. Viticulture has improved remarkably over the past few decades and modern techniques in the vineyard and the cellar have paved the way for Lagrein to deliver its true character consistently despite sometimes adverse conditions. The 2016 St. Paul’s is dark and inky, with a spicy black pepper nose and succulent ripe blackberry and boysenberry flavors on the palate. The tannins are nicely integrated and the wine exhibits exquisite balance. Serve it with winter stews, or slightly chilled with grilled meats in warmer months.