There’s a lot of Cinsault in South Africa, leading this winemaking duo to refer to it as “the red Chenin,” which makes good sense (Chenin is also widely planted, and for decades wasn’t taken seriously, but is now on the rise). This is a very unusual and exciting little wine, and I don’t employ the word “little” to diminish this in any way. On the contrary, it impresses precisely because it is fine and fresh and fun it its lightness, with very bright, tart red cherry fruit with fine tannins that are entirely appropriate to the weight of the wine. It is bottled just five months after vinification to capture these characteristics. Extremely useful, this would make wickedly good Thanksgiving wine if you can track down a bottle.