Franco Conterno, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2010

This is a quite traditional-seeming Barolo that offers terrific immediate appeal while standing as a rather dicey prospect for long-term ageing.  Deeply pigmented and explosively aromatic, it starts the thrill ride with a big waft of volatile acidity that lends an earthy, gamy character to the bouquet.  Yet the flavors are surprisingly clean and fresh despite the rather animalistic start, with fruit that shows strong flavor impact and a long, exciting finish with savory and fruity notes tailing off symmetrically.  Many American and English tasters will tell you that you must age Barolo for at least a decade before drinking it, but winemakers in the region advise much earlier consumption for most wines, so don’t be afraid to taste this sooner rather than later, as there’s no telling how prominent the gamy aspect may become over time.