Poderi Colla, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2010

This is a subtle, understated but nevertheless clearly beautiful wine.  It is not conspicuously light or lacking in any respect, so I don’t want to be mistaken for seeming to damn it with faint praise.  The point, rather, is that the wine isn’t conspicuous in any particular characteristic, as it is an object lesson in purity of fruit, structural proportionality, balance, and integration of aromatic and flavor components.  Already delicious, this is extremely likely to stay impeccably balanced as it develops over the next two decades.