Cerulli Spinozzi, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane (Abruzzo, Italy) 2008

 Cerulli Spinozzi’s Torre Migliori has all of the concentration that Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is known for, but with a complexity and elegance that is rarely seen in wines made from that grape.  It’s easy to see why Colline Teramane is Abruzzo’s sole DOCG.  The initial whiff of herbal notes predicts pleasure.  And pleasure follows.  It has power without being overwhelming.  Not just fruit, its savory aspects are beguiling.  Polished tannins impart structure but zero astringency, which allows you to enjoy it now.  It’s a great choice for hearty pasta or just a steak on the grill.  And it’s an exceptional value.