Gagliasso Mario, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2010

This producer’s 2008 “Torriglione” was among the most wildly earthy and exciting Barolo wines of that vintage, yet I was forced to give it a relatively modest score of 93 on account of it being somewhat “iffy” due to a whiff of volatile acidity and some indications of premature development.  By contrast, this 2010 from the great La Morra cru of Rocche dell Annunziata has all the complexity and excitement value of that 2008–but without the warning signs.  Frankly, given the fact that the producer isn’t world-famous, I’ve got my doubts that other reviewers will give this wine the score that it truly merits.  The color is extraordinary and the bouquet is huge and extremely engaging, with an earthiness that never quite turns “dirty” or “animal” in character.  The flavors are comparably compelling, with virtually perfect balance between fruity elements and leathery, savory ones.  The tannins are evident but not obtrusive, and the wine is sexy even in its structural impression, with a very persistent finish.  My raw note from when I tasted this blind in Italy is full of enthusiastic expletives, and I’m dying to taste it again….