Domaine Berthet-Rayne, Cairanne (Rhône Valley, France) 2014

This special bottling (as opposed to the straight Vieilles Vignes or “old vines") shows a lot of ripeness but just the faintest hint of raisining.  However, there is a powerful undertow of meaty, savory notes that keeps this from seeming over-ripe or obvious.  There’s no telling how long it will last, and I doubt it will improve from additional ageing, but it is pretty damned exciting right now.