Champagne Louis Roederer, Champagne (France) 2009

One of the great aspects of Cristal is that there is no such thing as a bad or even mediocre vintage Cristal. Because the Cristal grapes are so good, Cristal rates from very good to sublime.  The sublime vintages of the past 30 years are the 1988, 1996, and 2002. Cristal is made from old vines of Grand Cru Pinot Noir (60 percent) and Chardonnay (40 percent) grapes. It is never a “blockbuster” Champagne.  Rather it is the most elegant Champagne you can imagine, always with perfect balance.  Cristal has the ability to be enjoyed in its youth and also when it matures.  I will not forget the 1988 Cristal I enjoyed two years ago.  Recently I arranged a tasting of 12 Prestige Cuvées, including many 1996s.  The Cristal 2002 was voted first by the group.  Cristal is aged in Roederer’s cellars for six years before it is released.  Only 400,000 bottles are produced annually (estimated to be one-tenth of Dom Pérignon’s production), Cristal makes up about 11 or 12 percent of Louis Roederer’s sales. The house will not make more Cristal for fear of lowering quality.  Since it is in demand worldwide, Cristal is often difficult to find, even in the U.S., its best market (especially in December).  And yet, for a Champagne of this quality, it is a bargain (at $225) compared to the other superb Champagne, Krug Clos du Mesnil, at over $900.  A sublime vintage of Cristal would rate 100 points.  The 2009 is merely excellent.