Renato Ratti, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2012

Pietro Ratti’s entry level Barolo is terrific yet again in 2012 — as it has been in 2011 and 2010.  It is easier on the wallet than the Conca or Rocche Dell’Annunziata bottlings, which are always more age-worthy and intense, but also require considerably more time before entering their window of optimal drinkability.  This edition of Marcenasco shows a little wood but not in an overt or obtrusive way, and there’s more than enough sweet fruit to counterbalance it.  There are also some interesting savory notes, and though this is more about purity and balance than sheer power, that’s no knock on the wine.  A well grown, beautifully crafted wine.