The big, heavy, oversized bottle makes me not want to like this wine. But the first whiff — a combination of red fruits and earthiness — wins you over easily. It delivers cherry-like fruit and minerals woven into a fine texture. It’s not the slightest bit heavy, despite its stated 14.8% alcohol. Indeed, consistent with the Martin Ray style, there is an enchanting lightness for all its power.
Martin Ray, Napa Valley (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
By Michael Apstein