Mas de Daumas Gassac, Languedoc (France) 2014

Long one of the established stars within the Languedoc, which is known much more for quantity production than quality, Mas de Daumas Gassac remains at the top of its game with this release from 2014.  From the outset, the wines were based on Cabernet and Merlot (with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and drips of a few other varieties) rather than the typical varieties of southern France, and planted on rough terrain that had previously been thought unsuitable by those geared toward high yields.  Long regarded locally with suspicion (or outright hostility) but globally with admiration, the estate’s 2014 shows excellent strength but also impressive balance and integration of fruit, tannin, wood and acidity — even at this young age.  These wines always improve markedly if permitted five to ten years, and that’s a word to the wise that applies to this vintage as well.