Giovanni Rosso, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2011

This is a multi-dimensional winner from Serralunga that succeeds on the strength of restrained winemaking that permits prolonged interplay between ripe, sweet fruit and interesting savory undertones.  Rich but relatively soft, this is already completely delicious, but is structured adequately for another five years of positive development.  As an aside, this was no fluke, as Giovanni Rosso’s “Serra” bottling is every bit as good as the “Ceretta.”