Barbera is often overlooked as a superb quality grape in Piemonte, where all the attention is focused on Nebbiolo. The best Barberas, though, are powerful and complex wines. The 55-acre Tenuta Aluffi is in the southern part of Asti, near the town of Nizza Monferrato, a choice area for exceptional-quality Barbera. Within Aluffi is the La Court estate with excellent soils, old vines and a beneficial south-southwest exposure. Chiarlo’s 2012 La Court Barbera packs a velvety punch. Lovely aromas of ripe plum, blackberry, red cherry, violets, smoke and baking spice emanate from the glass. The flavors are luscious and silky-smooth, with layers of black cherry, plum and blackberry fruits underlain by the slighty rustic smoky/earthy/leathery complexity. This could change your mind about how good Barbera can be. Exceptionally enjoyable now, it can age well for another 3 to 5 years.
Michele Chiarlo, Barbera d’Asti (Piedmont, Italy) 2012
By Wayne Belding