Brambly is a term that can be confusing. It seems that different reviewers have different meanings for it, so I’ll say that when I use it, I’m referring to not only a mix of berries, but also other elements of the plant as well — flowers, leaves and so forth. Of course, now I’ll say that this wine is full throttle brambly, adding aromas of orange blossom, yet it stays dry and vibrant on the palate, bringing pepper and berries together in dramatic fashion. This is the sophisticated side of Zinfandel, and I’d expect nothing less from Dan Goldfield.
Dutton Goldfield, Russian River Valley (Sonoma County, California) Zinfandel 2013
By Rich Cook