This is what I think of as a Lolita wine: It has the energetic charm, silky plumpness and spicy-feral fragrance of adolescence, plus the promise of maturing into a great and elegant beauty in a few years. But you don’t have to wait — with its smoldering amalgam of dark purple elements (plums, berries, violets) it’s irresistible now.
Famille Perrin / Château de Beaucastel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Rhône Valley, France) 2012
By Marguerite Thomas