Los Astrales, Ribera del Duero (Castilla y León, Spain) 2012

Technical director Eduardo Garcia turned in a terrific performance when crafting the 2012 Astrales, which shows virtually perfect balance and proportionality.  At three years of age, it is already quite complex and easy to enjoy, though there is not the slightest hint of premature development.  Layered aromas and flavors include notes of black cherry and blackberry along with accents recalling espresso bean, cocoa powder and baking spices.  What little oak is still showing displays itself in such a subtle manner that it seems more like an extension of the fruit’s complexity than a distinct element.  Rounded in texture and quite deep in flavor, the wine has enough definition and grip to work best with food, but the tannins are so fine-grained and polished in character that you’ll find yourself tempted to sip this on its own.  My strong sense (based on long experience) is that other reviewers tend to under-score this wine because it is actually the second-tier offering from Los Astrales, with the flagship bottling being a very old-vine, 100% new French oak offering under the proprietary name of “Christina.”  There’s no doubting that the Christina bottling is a truly sensational wine, but so too is this standard release, which is already irresistible but nevertheless sure to improve from at least five more years of cellaring.