Luigi Bosca, Mendoza (Argentina) 2013

They say that confession is good for the soul, so, here goes:  I’ve had a hard time working up much enthusiasm for wines from Argentina lately, as so many of the examples I’ve tasted have seemed overly fruity and lacking in nuance and structure.  Sure, they deliver a lot of flavor for the money, but I tend to think they make more sense for consumers buying at the $12 to $15 level than at higher prices, as they often just get bigger and sweeter above that price tier without really getting much better.  Consequently, it was with rather limited enthusiasm that I opened this wine, with which I’ve had no prior experience.  And man, did it ever prove me wrong.  From the first sniff and sip, it showed tremendous class, with lovely aromas of dark fruits accented by scents of smoke and subtle spices.  On the palate, it is rich but not heavy, and satisfying but not overtly sweet.  The rich fruit is structured by lots of tannin, but the key thing is that the tannins are so fine-grained and polished that the wine is firm but not remotely hard or astringent.  Its overall size and power call for partnering it with relatively robust food, but the tannins are so rounded in character that you’d be fine with a veal chop as opposed to something like a grilled steak.  And as for the question of value, this not only makes sense at $38, but actually puts most $75 Napa Cabs to shame.  A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 5% Merlot.