Onesta, Lodi (California) Cinsaut 2012

I’ve not seen this "L"-less spelling of the grape name before, but I suppose it doesn’t matter since the pronunciation of the name never quite makes it to the final consonants anyway.  Randall Grahm recently proclaimed that "San-sou" will be the next "big thing" in wine, and while I suspect that acres planted might be a significant barrier to such a thing happening any time soon, this offering from Onesta owner/winemaker Jillian Johnson is pretty delicious.  Cinsault is usually used as a blender to add aroma and softness to other Rhone varieties, but here it solos to great effect, showing cherry, powder, rhubarb and spice in a medium weight package that finishes with ripe blackberry and cedar spice notes.  A soft texture and bright acidity help make this very interesting — imagine a cross of a bold Pinot Noir and a light styled Zinfandel and you’ll get a glimpse of where this wine is coming from.