Château Lagrange, St. Julien (Bordeaux, France) 2008

 The 2008 vintage in Bordeaux, like 2001, is slipping under consumers’ radar screens as they anxiously await the far more hyped 2009s.  That’s good news for those of us who like excellent wine and good wine prices.  Château Lagrange has been on a roll since Marcel Ducasse was brought in to run it after Suntory, the Japanese drinks company, purchased it in 1983.  Ducasse retired after the 2006 vintage, leaving Bruno Eynard, who had been the estate’s technical director for the previous 17 years, in charge.  If anything, the wines have gotten even better under Eynard’s leadership.  Despite, the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend (72%) since the 2000 vintage, the 2008 is plush and graceful, with finely polished tannins.  It delivers what has become the hallmark of Lagrange–an engaging combination of ripe sweet fruit and structure, with elegance and length.  Ducasse, and now Eynard, have resisted the current trend to make big Bordeaux, opting to retain the grace and charm that St. Julien offers.  Certainly enjoyable now, it will likely close down over the next year or two.  So pop the cork now or plan to cellar it for a decade.  You won’t be disappointed.