Stuhlmuller, Alexander Valley (Sonoma County) Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

I love the wines even though some vintages of Stuhlmuller’s Cabernet verge on being exhaustingly vigorous. The 2009 is relatively modest by comparison. It’s still a big powerful wine, with intense mocha, licorice and black cherry elements, but there’s nothing overripe or fatiguing about it. And like most Stuhlmuller vintages this Cab is absolutely fabulous with food thanks to the beautifully balanced streak of acid and tannins calibrated to underscore the gustatory virtues of meat (and other proteins), as well as hearty carbohydrates such as pasta.