J. Lohr, Paso Robles (California) Cabernet Sauvignon 2008

 Paso, as it’s commonly called, is getting recognition for its sumptuous Cabernets.  What’s particularly notable about this one, however, is its polish and finesse.  There are certainly plenty of black succulent fruit flavors.  But the intrigue and complexity comes from exotic, almost licorice-like spice that I suspect is a result of a touch (7%) of Malblec and Petite Sirah in the blend.  Long and refined, it carries its 14.5% alcohol effortlessly.  Even I, who regularly complains about high alcohol wines, concede that this one is beautifully balanced and shows you can’t judge a wine solely by its numbers.