Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits (Burgundy, France) 2010

This wine is an example of lesser appellations outperforming their pedigree due to vintage and producer. The 2010 wines have the tannin and acid structure of classic Burgundy as opposed to the overt fruit richness of the 2009 wines. The combination of an appellation that creates an inherent rusticity, and Bernard Gros’s insistence on using new oak in every vintage makes this a bruiser of a wine. These qualities are welcome when one wants a wine to accompany rich comfort foods such as braised meats. The concentration of wild berry liqueur flavors, sous bois, and smoke add complexity to a palate that is primarily about the structure. This wine has character beyond what its appellation might indicate.