Domaine Brusset, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2013

This sensational wine is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre that underwent elevage in 70% new French oak and 30% stainless steel.  It shows the density and power of the 2013 in Gigondas (which was marked by miniscule yields after poor spring flowering), yet the wine is nevertheless admirably graceful, as the marvelous fruit material has already soaked up much of the spice and toast notes from the oak to achieve excellent integration.  Many bottles of this wine will be drunk far too young for it to achieve its optimal maturity, but it offers up so much kick-down-the-door deliciousness that nobody could be blamed for cracking in early.