Domaine Les Pallières, Gigondas (Rhône Valley, France) 2012

This is a wildly, wonderfully expressive wine that many others would love even more than I did, as I knocked it down a couple of points on account of a whiff of alcoholic heat in the finish that I found distracting.  This might well have gone un-noticed if I had been able to try the wine in the midst of a meal, but in any case, it is definitely not a vitiating flaw, and it is more than counterbalanced by superb depth of flavor and a powerful, complex profile.  Full of fruit but also edged with fascinating leathery, meaty accents, this is muscular but not rough, and is quite the thrill ride.  Pass the grilled lamb chops.