Cuvaison, Los Carneros (California) Sauvignon Blanc 2018

 There is a notation on the label indicating the 2018 vintage of methode beton Sauvignon Blanc from Cuvaison has moved up from the winery’s “micro” program to its “small lot” program.  The reason is obvious.  By fermenting its Sauvignon Blanc in concrete eggs (as opposed to stainless steel tanks or oak barrels) and aging for nearly a year on the lees, Cuvaison has created a California Sauvignon Blanc like no other.  It shows a floral nose with complex notes of gooseberry, citrus and melon on the palate.  Superbly balanced and remarkably long on the finish, the Cuvaison has moved to the top tier of California Sauvignon alongside the likes of Duckhorn and Spottswoode.   The price, a suggested $40 per bottle, reflects that.  But it’s worth every penny.