Terra d’Aligi, Terre di Chieti IGT (Abruzzo, Italy) Pecorino 2019

 This is a very, very good example of Pecorino, a variety that was nearly extinct two decades ago, but is now roaring back to serious popularity (entirely deserved) thanks to the efforts of vintners in southern Marche and northern Abruzzo.  This is an unusually concentrated and rich version, with ripe fruit flavors recalling autumn pear and white melon, but there’s a nice little streak of citrus acidity that lifts and freshens the mid-palate and finish.  If you can find a bottle of this, drink it with food and drink it now, as the acid balance is just right at the moment, and the wine will prove extremely versatile (like really good Pinot Bianco, which this rendition resembles more than most takes on Pecorino in weight and texture).  A hint of pleasant bitterness (like citrus pith or walnut shell) will also help this show nicely at the table.