Torre Mora, Etna Rosso DOC (Sicily, Italy) 2017

 This is a taut, still tight Etna Rosso, with less overt ripeness than most and more structure too, whether because of the physical presence of acidity and tannin, or in sensory terms because these are “covered” less by sweet, open fruit.  But don’t count this out…it does loosen up with air, and it does seem to be built for the long haul despite being surprisingly inexpensive based on the prices listed for it worldwide.  The price is especially mystifying because of premium packaging in a serious bottle emblazoned with a wonderfully interesting artistic label.  No doubt the price will rise before long, given the updraft now underway for the appellation’s status.