Paixar, Bierzo (León, Spain) Mencia 2018

The 2018 release is an awesome rendition of Paixar, if different from many of its predecessors in showing very open bright fruit and exceptional overall freshness.  Floral aromatic topnotes are both captivating and exciting when enjoyed while beholding the wine’s very deep pigmentation, as the combination of aromatic charm and muscular-looking fruit offers an initial impression of a wine promising exceptional dimension and complexity.  That promise is fulfilled entirely on the palate, which offers flavors recalling black and red fruit tones as well as a blue fruit note that emerges as the wine opens in the glass.  The wood component is less evident in this vintage than in some earlier ones (I’ve tasted almost every release going back to this wine’s debut from the 2001 vintage), but it isn’t so easy to determine whether that’s because the toast level in the large casks was lower, or the wine removed earlier, or whether the fruit was just more absorptive in 2018.  Be that as it may, the result is a wonderful combination of prettiness and power.  The wine’s initial brightness and freshness is a bit misleading even after the wine has been well aerated, as there’s more physical density than was immediately apparent; the tears in a high-quality glass indicate the presence of plenty of glycerol, and though the wine softens with additional aeration, it actually seems to take on a bit of weight rather than lightening up as it loosens up.  This is a very stylish wine that will be fascinating to watch over the years to come, but one that would be a terrific choice for current use in persuading a friend who doesn’t know about Mencía or this variety’s greatness when derived from well-tended old vines and crafted by an outstanding producer.