Bonny Doon Vineyard, Monterey County (California) Grenache 2013

Winemaker Randall Grahm was among the first in California to embrace the so-called Rhone grape varieties, and he’s still one of the best at it. These grapes, historically grown in France’s Rhone Valley, are loaded with quirky personality, much like Mr. Grahm himself. His Grenache has always been a highlight, with its succulent, juicy red-fruited bent. What Grahm does, however, that is most admirable is exercise restraint with this grape that has a tendency to get very ripe and produce high-alcohol reds. Grahm prefers to retain the freshness and minerality that is commonly found in the wines from the Rhone, and he manages to keep the alcohol in check (though this vintage comes in at 14 percent). Seductive and spicy, it has a long, clean finish with a suggestion of tannic grip at the very end. Beautiful.