My mantra is producer, producer, producer. But when I am unfamiliar with a producer, I look at the importer, especially those who specialize in a country or region, because some importers’ portfolio are more consistent than others. Classical Wines from Spain is one of those importers. They rarely miss. This simple Garnacha from Príncipe de Viana is an excellent example. It’s a well-balanced cheery combination of fruity and spicy elements with hardly noticeable tannins — just enough so it’s not soft and flabby. It’s what I refer to as a “pizza wine,” but with unusual depth for a wine in that category. It would also go well with rotisserie chicken.
Bodegas Príncipe de Viana, Navarra (Spain) Garnacha 2012
By Michael Apstein