Morgan’s G 17 is a Syrah in name only. Oh, it meets the legal requirement to place Syrah on the label and sell it as Syrah. But it is so much more, with an infusion of red-fruit flavors from a generous 10 percent Grenache and 10 percent Tempranillo rounding out the blend. It’s sweet (from fruit, not sugar) and spicy and finishes with outstanding length. Very complex, very good.