Pujanza, Rioja (Spain) 2010

This terrific wine combines serious flavor impact with a very fresh, energetic character that will make it an outstandingly versatile performer at the table (for those who lack patience) but also an excellent candidate for long-term cellaring.  Ripe but restrained fruit is accented by scents of high-class oak, with toasty, smoky accents that work beautifully with the dark cherry core.  The freshness and energy of the wine make it seem almost “bright,” which isn’t what some tasters expect from a $95 bottle of red wine, but the fact is that it shows plenty of “bass” notes to balance out all of that treble.  This is proved by the wines persistent, proportional finish, in which the wood and grape tannins never overwhelm the fruit. This is a beautiful bottle of Rioja, enjoyable now but best after 2018.