Villa Sandi, Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze (Veneto, Italy) Glera 2016

 Cartizze is actually a separate DOCG from the other wines made in the region, widely described locally as the area’s “Grand Cru.”  Very steep, with a southerly orientation, it is a conspicuously promising vineyard site even to the naked eye, and has been prized for generations due to its ability to produce very ripe fruit that was almost always finished quite sweet.  This unusual Brut rendition was the most delicious wine I tasted on my 2018 visit to the region, though that is hardly a surprise, as this wine has been supremely delicious every year for at least the past eight vintages.  It simply has more depth and sheer flavor impact than almost any wine made in the region, yet still manages to seem supremely graceful, with essentially perfect proportionality to the fruit, minerality, acidity, and texture of effervescence.  Although finished truly Brut dry, the wine still seems very generous, and the balance is so good that one could sip this tirelessly for hours (after handing over one’s car keys).  For many wine consumers, shelling out $40 for a bottle of Prosecco might seem like madness, and that’s almost certainly true even for lovers of Prosecco.  I’m content to let them continue thinking that — aside from readers of this review — as there’s simply not enough of this rare and sensational wine to go around, and everyone who tastes it is sure to want more.  My score might be a point low…it is definitely not too high.  And by the way, though the 2016 is the current release in the USA, I tasted the 2017 in Italy, and it is at least as good.