Bedell Cellars, North Fork of Long Island (New York) Viognier 2017

 Bedell, one of the stars of the Long Island wine producers, has done a masterful job with this Viognier, a notoriously difficult grape to get right.  Normally Viognier needs full ripeness to deliver its characteristic floral flavors, often resulting in an alcoholic and heavy wine.  Bedell must have harvested theirs early — the stated alcohol is only 11.7 percent — but still managed to capture the delicate white flower aromas of Viognier.  It is lively — again, early harvest preserves acidity — and delicate, which is an unusual, but welcome, style for domestic Viognier.  It’s an ideal choice this summer for lighter luncheon fare, simply grilled fish, or Asian-influenced spicy cuisine.