Here’s a 2015 that fits the general profile of the vintage without crossing any of the lines that could take it away from showing excellent taste. It shows lots of sappy richness but not the slightest hint of over-ripeness (which is not so easy to do), and manages to come off as flavorful but not overly weighty and structured but not forbidding or astringent. Very nimbly grown and made in a vintage that tripped up plenty of others.
Giacomo Grimaldi, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2015
By Michael Franz