Marchesi di Barolo, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2015

 This big, historic producer has long been more famous for Cannubi than any other cru, but when they get things right from Sarmassa, this is the cru to buy.  And man, did they ever get things right in 2015, risking an overblown wine by (evidently) picking late in a hot, dry year but snatching up the fruit right before things might have gone haywire.  Very rich, ripe, dense and sweet, this shows a vaguely candied character but no hint of raisiny over-ripeness nor any hint of heat in the finish.  There’s actually enough acidity to keep it seeming fresh despite the faintly candied character, and enough tannin to avoid any sensation of flabbiness.  This won’t win any points for restraint, but it is quite an alluring fleshpot of a wine.