Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Barolo (Piedmont, Italy) 2015

 This is a masculine rendering of Cannubi from 2015, which is to say that it runs with rather than against the vintage, as do some of its even more beautiful neighbors.  That’s a bit of a backhanded compliment, but still, this is an impressive wine that delivers just the kind of richness and flavor impact expected by a lot of consumers shelling out the cash required to buy Cannubi.  They’ll get just a bit of alcoholic heat in the finish for their money, but they’ll also get so much deliciousness that no doubt this will be easily forgiven.