Due to the lamentable “grade inflation” that has afflicted wine evaluation during the past 15 years, “88” could easily be mistaken for the proverbial, “damning with faint praise.” That is definitely not my intention, which is, on the contrary, to highlight a rendition of Pinot Noir that remains true to the delicacy and purity for which this variety has been historically prized — and manages to do that at a price appropriate for a guilt-free Tuesday night. Simple but highly enjoyable aromas and flavors are marked by cherry and wild strawberry fruit notes with just a slight savory undertone to add a bit of complexity. That’s it. But that’s enough, and indeed, I’d much rather have my Tuesday night Pinot left well enough alone than have it juked up with Syrah or press wine or other cellar trickery to make it seem “impressive” rather than naturally pretty, which is exactly how this wine comes across.
Bernier, Loire Valley (France) Pinot Noir 2018
By Michael Franz