Segal, Judean Hills (Hulda Judean Foothills, Israel) Marawi 2019

 Among Israel’s 300 or so wineries, Segal is one of country’s premier producers, and certainly one of its oldest.  Founded in Russia in 1787 by Yaakov Hirsch Segal, the operation was relocated to Israel in 1925, sold by the Segal family to the Barkan Group in 2001, and is today one of Israel’s largest “boutique” kosher wine producers.  Perched in the Judean foothills — the country’s largest and centuries old wine growing region — this is one of the region’s most interesting wines.  Using native Marawi grapes, winemaker Ido Lewinsohn turned to resourceful production methods, including the use of wild ferment (native yeasts found on the fruit) and whole cluster pressing.  After spending 10 months in French oak barrels the resulting wine offers a unique opportunity to taste a white wine that will never be confused with, say, an oaky California Chardonnay.  Segal’s Marawi is a delicate — almost shy — white wine with citrus rather than stone-fruit flavors, dominated more by minerality than fruitiness.