Marqués de Cáceres, Rioja Crianza (Spain) 2015

 This quite sizeable bodega makes plenty of this wine (I’ve been there, and this is no secret), but it is impressive that this affordable release is so affordable while also being so complex and interesting.  No doubt a warm vintage in 2015 helped attain that outcome, but all poker players know that even a good hand can be misplayed, so credit goes to the winemaking team at Marqués de Cáceres.  Spicy and toasty but definitely not over-oaked (which is hardly a given in Rioja), this has more than enough punchy cherry and dark berry fruit to push through the wood and achieve admirable balance.  Already easy to enjoy with all sorts of moderately robust meats (or aged cheeses), this is a winner with great versatility and at least five years of positive development ahead of it.