Yves Cuilleron, Saint-Joseph (Rhône Valley, France) 2017

 Cuilleron’s cellar releases wines every year that demonstrate the competitiveness of Saint-Joseph and Cornas with the historically more revered terroirs of Côte-Rotie and Hermitage; the four bottlings of Côte-Rotie are excellent, but the releases in 2017 from Saint-Joseph and Cornas are every bit as good when tasted side-by-side in close succession.  This was the best of the 2017s from St-Jo (narrowly but clearly), with very impressive density and depth of flavor, but even more impressive purity of fruit.  Indeed, my raw note taken when tasting this includes mention of “piercing purity,” as the fruit has uncanny freshness that punches straight through the wood and tannin to give this amazing lift and freshness for such a ripe, concentrated wine.  Now being sold in Europe, I’ve yet to see this on offer in the USA, but keep this in mind and pounce when you see it.  About 15,000 bottles were produced, and by the way, “Serines” isn’t a vineyard site, but rather a local synonym for Syrah.  This is an old vine cuvee, and a stunning one in 2017.